Climbing Reports

Travel using both feet and hands, whether scrambling unroped or technical climbing using rope and anchors.

Northern Elkhorn Range Peaks, Oregon, July 2012

August 26, 2012 by Paul McClellan Leave a Comment

On Thursday, July 12, I camped at the Anthony Lakes Campground in the Elkhorn Mountains of Northeast Oregon. I found a good campsite near a short trail leading to the Elkhorn Crest Trailhead. I planned to climb five Northern Elkhorn Range Peaks over the next two days. My plans were cut short by stormy weather.

Peak 8525 (Elkhorn Range) aka "Dutch Flat Saddle South" — Peak 8525 (Elkhorn Range) aka “Dutch Flat Saddle South”

On the next morning, Friday, July 13, I hiked south on the Elkhorn Crest Trail (ECT) towards Angell Pass. On the way I nearly walked into a sleek, white mountain goat who was descending the trail. He quickly turned and went out of view as I retrieved my camera. I continued over Angell Pass below the west face of Angel Peak and on to Dutch Flat Saddle. From the saddle I climbed the north ridge of Peak 8525 (aka “Dutch Flat Saddle South”) to its rocky summit.

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Pueblo Mountains and Beatys Butte, Oregon, July 2012

July 24, 2012 by Paul McClellan Leave a Comment

In early July I visited the Pueblo Mountains and to Beatys Butte in Southeast Oregon for the first time. I hoped to climb three peaks during the visit.

Pueblo Mountains

On Saturday, June 30, I drove from Denio Junction, Nevada, north, then up the narrow and rocky “Arizona Creek Road”. After 4.6 miles I found a campsite just north of Stergen Meadows near the head of Arizona Creek. My campsite lay below the north ridge of Pueblo Mountain. I enjoyed the views north towards Steens Mountain as the shadows gradually lengthened during the late afternoon and evening.

West Pueblo Ridge from North Ridge, Pueblo Mountain

Sunday morning I walked the road up through Stergen Meadows to Ten Cent Meadow. On the way in I tried a shortcut to avoid some unnecessary elevation gain and loss. But I decided it would be easier on the return to stay on the road to avoid minor gullies and brush. At Ten Cent Meadow I left the road and climbed open slopes up to and through a notch. This led to the ridge just left of the yellow-banded cliffs in the photo above. Cumulus clouds were building and threatening showers, but not yet suggesting the thunderstorms that were forecast.

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Climbing Denali 1996

February 5, 2010 by Paul McClellan Leave a Comment

In June 1996 I joined Fantasy Ridge Alpinism on a guided expedition climbing Denali in Alaska. This was a small team, with five clients and two guides. The guides, Lyle Dean and Jim Nigro, were excellent and I had a successful and very rewarding experience.

For several years I had wanted to climb Denali (Mount McKinley). In preparation I gained high altitude climbing experience climbing in Mexico in 1990 and in Ecuador in 1991-1992.

Finally, in the fall of 1995 I decided the time and circumstances were right to join a guided trip. Using a guide service I could minimize the logistical planning and preparations and instead focus on obtaining equipment and getting training. I could also attempt an alternate route to the standard West Buttress route and learn from an experienced Alaskan mountain guide.

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Climbing in Ecuador

February 5, 2010 by Paul McClellan Leave a Comment

In December 1991 three friends and I left on our private climbing expedition to summit three ultra prominence peaks in Ecuador. The original goal was to climb the volcanoes Cotopaxi, Chimborazo, and Cayambe. But the trip evolved considerably as it progressed.

I wanted to climb in Ecuador since my climbing trip to Mexico in 1990. I had tried to join a Mazamas expedition in 1991 but had no luck getting in. So when I heard from other Chemeketans that Gary Metternich, Steve Autio, Mark Bovie, and Pete Bond were planning a climbing expedition to Ecuador I quickly called and asked to join. Pete had to back out so that left an opening for me and I was in.

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